A home warranty is a service contract, normally for one year, which helps protect home owners against the cost of unexpected covered repairs or replacement on their major systems and appliances that break down due to normal wear and tear. Coverage is for systems and appliances in good working order at the start of the contract.

Check your home warranty policy to see which of the following items are covered. Also find out if the policy covers the full replacement cost of an item.

·          Plumbing

·          Electrical systems

·          Furnace

·          Water heater

·          Heating ducts

·          Water pump

·          Dishwasher

·          Garbage disposal

·          Stove/cooktop/ovens

·          Microwave

·          Refrigerator

·          Washer/dryer

·          Swimming pool (may be optional)

Source: American Home Shield, www.ahswarranty.com, REALTOR® Benefits Partner

Credit scores, along with your overall income and debt, are big factors in determining whether you’ll qualify for a loan and what your loan terms will be. So, keep your credit score high by doing the following:

1. Check for and correct any errors in your credit report. Mistakes happen, and you could be paying for someone else’s poor financial management.

2. Pay down credit card bills. If possible, pay off the entire balance every month. Transferring credit card debt from one card to another could lower your score.

3. Don’t charge your credit cards to the maximum limit.

4. Wait 12 months after credit difficulties to apply for a mortgage. You’re penalized less for problems after a year.

5. Don’t order items for your new home on credit — such as appliances and furniture — until after the loan is approved. The amounts will add to your debt.

6. Don’t open new credit card accounts before applying for a mortgage. Too much available credit can lower your score.

7. Shop for mortgage rates all at once. Too many credit applications can lower your score, but multiple inquiries from the same type of lender are counted as one inquiry if submitted over a short period of time.

8. Avoid finance companies. Even if you pay the loan on time, the interest is high and it will probably be considered a sign of poor credit management.

This information is copyrighted by the Fannie Mae Foundation and is used with permission of the Fannie Mae Foundation. To obtain a complete copy of the publication, Knowing and Understanding Your Credit, visit www.homebuyingguide.org.

·          Owner’s manuals and warranties for appliances left in the house.

·          Garage door opener.

·          Extra sets of house keys.

·          A list of local service providers — the best dry cleaner, yard service, plumber, etc.

·          Code to the security alarm and phone number of the monitoring service if not discontinued.

·          As a courtesy, you could provide numbers to the local utility companies.

If it’s a condo, leave information on how to contact the condo board.

Reprinted from REALTOR® magazine (REALTOR.org/realtormag) with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.

Copyright 2008. All rights reserved.

It’s guaranteed to be hectic right before closing, but you should always make time for a final walk-through. Your goal is to make sure that your home is in the same condition you expected it would be. Ideally, the sellers already have moved out. This is your last chance to check that appliances are in working condition and that agreed-upon repairs have been made. Here’s a detailed list of what not to overlook for on your final walk-through.

Make sure that:

·          Repairs you’ve requested have been made. Obtain copies of paid bills and warranties.

·          There are no major changes to the property since you last viewed it.

·          All items that were included in the sale price — draperies, lighting fixtures, etc. — are still there.

·          Screens and storm windows are in place or stored.

·          All appliances are operating, such as the dishwasher, washer and dryer, oven, etc.

·          Intercom, doorbell, and alarm are operational.

·          Hot water heater is working.

·          No plants or shrubs have been removed from the yard.

·          Heating and air conditioning system is working

·          Garage door opener and other remotes are available.

·          Instruction books and warranties on appliances and fixtures are available.

·          All personal items of the sellers and all debris have been removed. Check the basement, attic, and every room, closet, and crawlspace.

Reprinted from REALTOR® magazine (REALTOR.org/realtormag) with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.

Copyright 2008. All rights reserved.

Century 21 Advantage

17 Tips for Packing Like a Pro

Moving to a new home can be stressful, to say the least. Make it easy on yourself by planning far in advance and making sure you’ve covered all the bases.

1. Plan ahead by organizing and budgeting. Develop a master “to do” list so you won’t forget something critical on moving day, and create an estimate of moving costs. (A moving calculator is available at REALTOR.com)

2. Sort and get rid of things you no longer want or need. Have a garage sale, donate to a charity, or recycle.

3. But don’t throw out everything. If your inclination is to just toss it, you're probably right. However, it's possible to go overboard in the heat of the moment. Ask yourself how frequently you use an item and how you’d feel if you no longer had it. That will eliminate regrets after the move.

4. Pack similar items together. Put toys with toys, kitchen utensils with kitchen utensils. It will make your life easier when it's time to unpack.

5. Decide what, if anything, you plan to move on your own. Precious items such as family photos, valuable breakables, or must-haves during the move should probably stay with you. Don't forget to keep a "necessities" bag with tissues, snacks, and other items you'll need that day.

6. Remember, most movers won’t take plants. If you don't want to leave them behind, you should plan on moving them yourself.

7. Use the right box for the item. Loose items are prone to breakage.

8. Put heavy items in small boxes so they’re easier to lift. Keep the weight of each box under 50 pounds, if possible.

9. Don’t over-pack boxes. It increases the likelihood that items inside the box will break.

 
10. Wrap every fragile item separately and pad bottom and sides of boxes. If necessary, purchase bubble-wrap or other packing materials from moving stores.

11. Label every box on all sides. You never know how they’ll be stacked and you don’t want to have to move other boxes aside to find out what’s there.

12. Use color-coded labels to indicate which room each item should go in. Color-code a floor plan for your new house to help movers.

13. Keep your moving documents together in a file. Include important phone numbers, driver’s name, and moving van number. Also keep your address book handy.

14. Print out a map and directions for movers. Make several copies, and highlight the route. Include your cell phone number on the map. You don’t want movers to get lost! Also make copies for friends or family who are lending a hand on moving day.

15. Back up your computer files before moving your computer. Keep the backup in a safe place, preferably at an off-site location.

16. Inspect each box and all furniture for damage as soon as it arrives.

17. Make arrangements for small children and pets. Moving can be stressful and emotional. Kids can help organize their things and pack boxes ahead of time, but, if possible, it might be best to spare them from the moving-day madness.

Reprinted from REALTOR® magazine (REALTOR.org/realtormag) with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®.

Copyright 2008. All rights reserved.

Want to exchange music lessons for help managing a garage sale, or any other number of tasks? A bartering co-op can help you find the right match in your neighborhood.

In communities around the country, homeowners have rediscovered the benefits of barter trade. By organizing a structured barter system, neighbors can go beyond an infrequent "I'll cut your lawn and you'll make me lunch" agreement. A barter co-op allows local residents to exchange with multiple partners, access a wide range of local services and goods, and help their neighbors.

Barter co-ops can be focused on one service (a babysitting club, for example) or include any service that participants want to offer. They can be limited to one neighborhood, be citywide, or even cross state lines. Barter systems can be run using a supply of simple paper money, or a sophisticated electronic spreadsheet.

In suburban Minneapolis/St. Paul, Donna Cullen has had her basement cleaned and her bushes trimmed, and she's been driven a few times to the airport through the local Hour Dollars barter program. For her part, she offers simple services like dog walking, gift-wrapping, and leaf-raking.

"The most popular categories are things like haircuts and massage, and people ask for a driver for when they need to do errands. But we have lawyers willing to do wills, too," says Cullen, an Hour Dollars board member. "Everyone has value and something to offer."

How it works

Since a barter co-op allows members to trade with multiple partners, your program must have a system to keep track of things. Many groups use a currency based on hours. If it takes me an hour to shovel your snow, you pay me one "neighborhood dollar," which I may use next week with another member who is offering to tutor high school math.

Some co-ops say that every hour of work is worth the same, regardless of the tasks; others let participants negotiate-weeding a garden for an hour might be worth one neighborhood dollar, while a plumber might ask for three for the hour it would take to fix a leak.

It's easier to keep track of everyone's neighborhood dollars electronically than to print and issue barter co-op money. Just have both members email the cost and the transaction, and have a designated member keep track. A small group can get by with a spreadsheet on a coordinator's computer with email messages sent to members about their balance. For a system that can be accessed online by anyone in the co-op, a free database program can be modified by a tech savvy member.

An added benefit of the electronic system is that if a member wants a service that costs more neighborhood dollars than he has right now, he can run a deficit for a while, rather than having to wait until he's earned enough. Keep an eye on borrowers, though, and be willing to help them earn more neighborhood dollars.

A password-accessible website for members to check their hours is also a good spot for posting what each participant offers. A typical barter co-op member might use and return a half-dozen to 20 or so hours a year. Sending out a regular newsletter (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/condo-association-newsletter-helps-owners-feel-more-home/) -email or printed-lets everyone know what services are available, builds a sense of community, and keeps the co-op visible.

If you'd like to see exactly what's involved in starting a barter co-op, Timebanks USA (http://www.timebanks.org) offers a $65 start-up kit that includes six months' access to its barter co-op management software program, a manual, and online peer coaching.

Smooth sailing

It's a good idea to pull together a core team to operate the program and set the ground rules. Here are some other key ideas for that team to consider:

Create clear parameters. A member might barter for just a few hours of service, but it's still an economic transaction. Treat everyone equally. Be sure the rules are fair and the system is transparent to avoid misunderstandings.

Issue hours to new members. Currency works best when there is liquidity. Give each new member a set number of hours when they join (two or three), and consider giving a member an hour when they bring a dish to share for a quarterly meeting or write the co-op newsletter. When people have a few hours in their account, they're more likely to use them and keep the system moving.

Keep members comfortable. Providing or receiving services from someone you've never met can be daunting. "Help everyone remember: Every transaction is voluntary, and the terms are negotiable," says Jon Hain, the board president of Madison Hours, a barter group in Madison, Wis. "You never want anyone to feel that having credits is a burden."

Explain the tax implications. The IRS considers bartering with unofficial money a taxable transaction. For a group of neighbors who are trading babysitting and car washes, you probably don't have to worry about this. However, if some of your members are businesses, they should consider any payment in "dollar hours" in the books as cash.

A community barter co-op takes some work to establish. Although it might take up to 150 hours to get one going, once it's running, it doesn't require that much time to maintain its progress. And, it can be more than a way to find someone to clean your gutters--it can be a great way to get to know your neighbors as well.

Carl Vogel, a Chicago-based freelance writer and former editor of The Neighborhood Works magazine, has written about public policy and community organizing and development for more than 15 years. He would trade some babysitting with someone willing to paint his garage.

Almost one-third of the water your family uses-some 100 gallons a day on average-ends up on your yard and garden, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. Nationwide, more than 7 billion gallons a day go to landscape irrigation. If that weren't problem enough, as much as half that water is wasted. It falls on sidewalks or evaporates into the air before it ever reaches the ground. With a few simple changes to the way you water, you can save a precious resource and lower your bills at the same time. To remember the steps to take, just use our handy acronym: DIRTS, which stands for drip irrigation, recapture, timers, and sensors.

Drip irrigation sends water only where you need it

Drip irrigation systems can be a great way to save because they put water only where you want it. Unlike a soaker hose, which emits water all along its length, a drip system delivers water directly to plants' roots, which cuts down on waste and also reduces weeds.

A drip system is basically a long, thin plastic tube sitting on the ground or, less often, buried right below the surface. Small fittings, called emitters, release water at rates of one-half to four gallons an hour. The tubing is attached to your outside faucet with a valve. You can turn on the drip manually or put it on a timer. Some systems also let you adjust the water flow, which can help prevent overwatering.

Installing a drip system is pretty easy. Attach the valve, run the tubing, and insert the emitters where you want water. The number of emitters you need depends on what you're watering. A 10-foot tree that soaks up 60 gallons of water a week might need several emitters, while a small plant that only requires a couple of gallons would need just one.

A new drip system will cost about anywhere from $50 for about 20 plants to $200 or more for a whole yard. You can also convert your existing in-ground sprinkler system. Companies like RainBird make adapters that let you replace sprinkler heads with connectors for drip tubing. Going from sprinklers to drip irrigation can cut lawn water use by up to 50%, saving you about $70 off the average annual household water bill of $475.

Recapturing rainwater lets you irrigate for free

Plants love the purity of rainwater, and you can't beat the price. One inch of rain on a 1,000-square-foot roof provides 600 gallons of runoff. Depending on your local rainfall (http://maps.howstuffworks.com/united-states-annual-rainfall-map.htm), that could be enough to water your plants all summer.

All you need to harvest rainwater is a simple plastic or wooden drum with a spigot near the bottom where you can attach your hose. A 60-gallon model will set you back $75 to $150.

Just put the barrel underneath a downspout to catch rainwater coming off the roof. You'll need to attach a flexible elbow to the downspout so it feeds into the barrel. In areas of heavy rainfall, you can expand your storage capacity with $10 connectors that let water flow from one barrel to another.

 A few cautions. Roofs made of asbestos shingles, treated cedar shakes, or old tar and gravel aren't good candidates for rainwater collection because the runoff may contain high levels of contaminants. To keep debris out and pests away, especially mosquitoes, cover your barrel with a fine mesh screen or lid. If you have kids, clamp the lid down to keep them from falling in.

Timers and sensors keep water waste to a minimum

Whatever watering system you choose, putting a timer on it will make your watering more efficient. Plus, if you live in a drought-prone area where watering schedules are restricted, a timer can keep you from getting a ticket.

Timer kits range from simple $20 dial models that screw onto the faucet and let you set on and off times manually to electronic controllers that let you program multiple on-off times and different watering schedules for different days of the week. If you want to track your water use, you can add a garden water meter for less than $10.

For even greater water savings, you need a sensor ($20-$30) that adjusts the water flow depending on how much rain you've had. These sensors measure either actual rainfall or the moisture in the soil, then automatically subtract that amount from the next watering cycle. Savings can be significant: A University of Florida study (http://www.eng.ufl.edu/newsroom/articles/detail_articles.php?id=528) showed that soil moisture monitors can cut water use by more than 50%.

You can even give your water monitoring a high-tech spin with an ET (evapotranspiration) controller. These "smart" controllers use real-time satellite weather data to make watering adjustments. They can also be programmed to adjust for soil type, weather conditions, and slope. Installation requires a professional, but savings can be 20% to 40%, according to the Irrigation Association (http://www.irrigation.org). Many water agencies in the West give rebates to customers who install "smart" systems; in southern California, installing an ET controller qualifies you for a $200 rebate.

Laura Fisher Kaiser is a contributing editor to Interior Design magazine and a former editor at This Old House Magazine. The secret to her Washington, D.C., garden is blood, sweat, tears, and mosquito repellent.

Getting the loan that suits your situation at the best possible price and terms makes homebuying easier and more affordable. Here are seven ways to boost your credit score so you can do just that.

1. Know your credit score

Credit scores range from 300 to 850, and the higher, the better. They're based on whether you've paid personal loans, car loans, credit cards, and other debt in full and on time in the past. You'll need a score of at least 620 to qualify for a home loan and 740 to get the best interest rates and terms.

 You're entitled to a free copy of your credit report annually from each of the major credit-reporting bureaus, Equifax (http://www.equifax.com), Experian (http://www.experian.com), and TransUnion (http://www.transunion.com). Access all three versions of your credit report at www.annualcreditreport.com (http://www.annualcreditreport.com). Review them to ensure the information is accurate.

2. Correct errors on your credit report

If you find mistakes on your credit report, write a letter to the credit-reporting agency explaining why you believe there's an error. Send documents that support your case, and ask that the error be corrected or removed. Also write to the company, or debt collector, that reported the incorrect information to dispute the information, and ask to be copied on any materials sent to credit-reporting agencies.

3. Pay every bill on time

You may be surprised at the damage even a few late payments will have on your credit score. The easiest way to make a big difference in your credit score without altering your spending habits is to diligently pay all your bills on time. You'll also save money because you'll keep the money you've been spending on late fees. Credit card or mortgage companies probably won't report minor late payments, those less than 30 days overdue, but you'll still have to pay late fees.

4. Use credit carefully

Another good way to boost your credit score is to pay your credit card bills in full every month. If you can't do that, pay as much over your required minimum payment as possible to begin whittling away the debt. Stop using your credit cards to keep your balances from increasing, and transfer balances from high-interest credit cards to lower-interest cards.

5. Take care with the length of your credit

Credit rating agencies also consider the length of your credit history. If you've had a credit card for a long time and managed it responsibly, that works in your favor. However, opening several new credit cards at once can lower the average age of your accounts, which pushes down your score. Likewise, closing credit card accounts lowers your available credit, so keep credit cards open even if you're not using them.

6. Don't use all the credit you're offered

Credit scores are also based on how much credit you use compared with how much you're offered. Using $1,000 of available credit will give you a lower score than having $1,000 of available credit and using $100 of it. Occasionally opening new lines of credit can boost your available credit, which also affects your score positively.

7. Be patient

It can take time for your credit score to climb once you've begun working to improve it. Keep at it because the more distance you put between your spotty payment history and your current good payment record, the less damage you'll do to your credit score.

Other web resources

How FICO scores are calculated (http://www.myfico.com/CreditEducation/WhatsInYourScore.aspx)

Answers to frequently asked credit report questions (https://www.annualcreditreport.com/cra/helpfaq)

 G.M. Filisko is an attorney and award-winning writer who keeps a close eye on her credit scores. A frequent contributor to many national publications including Bankrate.com, REALTOR®; Magazine, and the American Bar Association Journal, she specializes in real estate, business, personal finance, and legal topics.

Most potential homebuyers are a smidge daunted by the fact that they're about to agree to a hefty mortgage that they'll be paying for the next few decades. The best way to relieve that anxiety is to be confident you're purchasing the best home at a price you can afford with the most favorable financing. These seven steps will help you make smart decisions about your biggest purchase.

1. Decide how much home you can afford

Generally, you can afford a home priced 2 to 3 times your gross income. Remember to consider costs every homeowner must cover: property taxes, insurance, maintenance, utilities, and community association fees, if applicable, as well as costs specific to your family, such as day care if you plan to have children.

2. Develop your home wish list

Be honest about which features you must have and which you'd like to have. Handicap accessibility for an aging parent or special needs child is a must. Granite countertops and stainless steel appliances are in the bonus category. Come up with your top-five must-haves and top-five wants to help you focus your search and make a logical, rather than emotional, choice when home shopping.

3. Select where you want to live

Make a list of your top-five community priorities, such as commute time, schools, and recreational facilities. Ask your REALTOR® to help you identify three to four target neighborhoods based on your priorities.

4. Start saving

Have you saved enough money to qualify for a mortgage and cover your downpayment? Ideally, you should have 20% of the purchase price set aside for a downpayment, but some lenders allow as little as 5% down. A small downpayment preserves your savings for emergencies.

However, the lower your downpayment, the higher the loan amount you'll need to qualify for, and if you still qualify, the higher your monthly payment. Your downpayment size can also influence your interest rate and the type of loan you can get.

Finally, if your downpayment is less than 20%, you'll be required to purchase private mortgage insurance. Depending on the size of your loan, PMI can add hundreds to your monthly payment. Check with your state and local government for mortgage and downpayment assistance programs for first-time buyers.

5. Ask about all the costs before you sign

A downpayment is just one homebuying cost. Your REALTOR® can tell you what other costs buyers commonly pay in your area-including home inspections, attorneys' fees, and transfer fees of 2% to 7% of the home price. Tally up the extras you'll also want to buy after you move-in, such as window coverings and patio furniture for your new yard.

6. Get your credit in order

A credit report details your borrowing history, including any late payments and bad debts, and typically includes a credit score. Lenders lean heavily on your credit report and credit score in determining whether, how much, and at what interest rate to lend for a home. Most require a minimum credit score of 620 for a home mortgage.

You're entitled to free copies of your credit reports (https://www.annualcreditreport.com/cra/index.jsp) annually from the major credit bureaus: Equifax (http://www.equifax.com), Experian (http://www.experian.com), and TransUnion (http://www.transunion.com). Order and then pore over them to ensure the information is accurate, and try to correct any errors before you buy. If your credit score isn't up to snuff, the easiest ways to improve it are to pay every bill on time and pay down high credit card debt.

7. Get prequalified

Meet with a lender to get a prequalification letter that says how much house you're qualified to buy. Start gathering the paperwork your lender says it needs. Most want to see W-2 forms verifying your employment and income, copies of pay stubs, and two to four months of banking statements.

If you're self-employed, you'll need your current profit and loss statement, a current balance sheet, and personal and business income tax returns for the previous two years.

Consider your financing options. The longer the loan, the smaller your monthly payment. Fixed-rate mortgages offer payment certainty; an adjustable-rate mortgage offers a lower monthly payment. However, an adjustable-rate mortgage may adjust dramatically. Be sure to calculate your affordability at both the lowest and highest possible ARM rate.

More from HouseLogic

Learn how Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac mortgages can help you save on financing (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/how-fannie-mae-and-freddie-mac-save-you-money/)

Learn more about the costs of homeownership (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/a-financial-plan-for-your-home/)

 Other web resources

Homebuyer counseling resources (http://www.hud.gov/offices/hsg/sfh/hcc/counslng.cfm)

 Get a free credit report from each of the three credit reporting bureaus (https://www.annualcreditreport.com/cra/index.jsp)

 G.M. Filisko is an attorney and award-winning writer who has thrice survived the homebuying process. A frequent contributor to many national publications including Bankrate.com, REALTOR® Magazine, and the American Bar Association Journal, she specializes in real estate, business, personal finance, and legal topics.

You have choices when selecting representation in a real estate transaction. Here are five tips for understanding which type of legal relationship with a real estate professional, called an agency relationship, will best protect you when you buy or sell a home.

1. Buyer's agency

When you're buying a home, you can hire an agent who represents only you, called an exclusive buyer's representative or agent. A buyer's agent works in your best interest and owes you a fiduciary duty. You can pay your buyer's agent yourself, or ask the seller, or the seller's agent, to pay your agent a share of their sales commission.

If you're selling your home and hiring an agent to list it exclusively, you've hired a selling representative--an agent who owes fiduciary duties to you. Typically, you pay a selling agent a commission at closing. Selling agents usually offer or agree to pay a portion of their sales commission to the buyer's agent. If your seller's agent brings in a buyer, your agent keeps the entire commission.

2. Subagency

When you purchase a home, the agent you can opt to work with may not be your agent at all, but instead may be a subagent of the seller. In general, a subagent represents and acts in the best interest of the sellers and sellers' agent.

If your agent is acting as a subagent, you can expect to be treated honestly, but the subagent owes loyalty to the sellers and their agent and can't put your interests above those of the sellers. In a few states, agents aren't permitted to act as subagents.

Never tell a subagent anything you don't want the sellers to know. Maybe you offered $150,000 for a home but are willing to go up to $160,000. That's the type of information subagents would be required to pass on to their clients, the sellers.

3. Disclosed dual agency

In many states, agents and companies can represent both parties in a home sale as long as that relationship is fully disclosed. It's called disclosed dual agency. Because dual agents represent both parties, they can't be protective of and loyal to only you. Dual agents don't owe all the traditional fiduciary duties to clients. Instead, they owe limited fiduciary duties to each party.

Why would you agree to dual agency? Suppose you want to buy a house that's listed for sale by the same real estate brokerage where your buyer's agent works. In that case, the real estate brokerage would be representing both you and the seller and you'd both have to agree to that.

Because there's a potential for conflicts of interest with dual agency, all parties must give their informed consent. In many states, that consent must be in writing.

4. Designated agency

A form of disclosed dual agency, "designated agency" allows two different agents within a single firm to represent the buyer and seller in the same transaction. To avoid conflicts that can arise with dual agency, some managing brokers designate or appoint agents in their company to represent only sellers, or only buyers. But that isn't required for designated agency. A designated, or appointed, agent will give you full representation and represent your best interests.

5. Nonagency relationship

In some states, you can choose not to be represented by an agent. That's referred to as nonagency or working with a transaction broker or facilitator. In general, in nonagency representation, the real estate professional you work with owes you fewer duties than a traditional agency relationship. And those duties vary from state to state. Ask the person you're working with to explain what he or she will and won't do for you.

Other web resources

More on hiring a real estate agent (http://www.nolo.com/legal-encyclopedia/article-30016.html)

 More on real estate agents' roles (http://www.dllr.state.md.us/license/mrec/mrecrep.shtml)

 G.M. Filisko is an attorney and award-winning writer who zealously protected her clients' interests as a lawyer. A frequent contributor to many national publications, including Bankrate.com, REALTOR®; Magazine, and the American Bar Association Journal, she specializes in real estate, business, personal finance, and legal topics.

A home purchase isn't complete until you make it to the closing. Until then, the transaction can fall apart for many reasons. Here are five tips for avoiding mistakes that cause a home sale to crater.

1. Be truthful on your mortgage application

You may think fudging your income a little or omitting debts when applying for a mortgage will go unnoticed. Not true. Lenders have become more diligent in verifying information on mortgage applications. If you fib, expect to be found out and denied the loan you need to fund your home purchase. Plus, intentionally lying on a mortgage application is a crime.

2. Hold off on big purchases

Lenders double-check buyers' credit right before the closing to be sure their financial condition hasn't weakened. If you've opened new credit cards, significantly increased the balance on existing cards, taken out new loans, or depleted your savings, your credit score may have dropped enough to make your lender change its mind on funding your home loan.

Although it's tempting to purchase new furniture and other items for your new home, or even a new car, wait until after the closing.

3. Keep your job

The lender may refuse to fund your loan if you quit or change jobs before you close the purchase. The time to take either step is after a home closing, not before.

4. Meet contingencies

If your contract requires you to do something before the sale, do it. If you're required to secure financing, promptly provide all the information the lender requires. If you must deposit additional funds into escrow, don't stall. If you have 10 days to get a home inspection, call the inspector immediately.

5. Consider deadlines immovable

Get your funds together a week or so before the closing, so you don't have to ask for a delay. If you'll need to bring a certified check to closing, get it from the bank the day before, not the day of, your closing. Treat deadlines as sacrosanct.

More from HouseLogic

How maintenance adds to home values (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/value-home-maintenance/)

Reducing closing stress (http://buyandsell.houselogic.com/articles/7-steps-stress-free-home-closing/)

 Other web resources

More on calculating closing costs (http://www.hud.gov/offices/hsg/ramh/res/sc3sectb.cfm)

More on the closing process (http://www.homeclosing101.org/closing.cfm)

G.M. Filisko is an attorney and award-winning writer who wanted a successful closing on a Wisconsin property so bad that she probably made her agent rethink going into real estate. A frequent contributor to many national publications including Bankrate.com, REALTOR® Magazine, and the American Bar Association Journal, she specializes in real estate, business, personal finance, and legal topics.

Homeownership should make you feel safe and secure, and that includes financially. Be sure you can afford your home by calculating how much of a mortgage you can safely fit into your budget.

Instead of just taking out the biggest mortgage a lender qualifies you to borrow, consider how much you want to pay each month for housing based on your financial and personal goals.

Think ahead to major life events and consider how those might influence your budget. Do you want to return to school for an advanced degree? Will a new child add day care to your monthly expenses? Does a relative plan to eventually live with you and contribute to the mortgage?

Still not sure how much you can afford? You can use the same formulas that most lenders use, or try another of these traditional methods for estimating the amount of mortgage you can afford.

1. The general rule of mortgage affordability

As a rule of thumb, you can typically afford a home priced two to three times your gross income. If you earn $100,000, you can typically afford a home between $200,000 and $300,000.

To understand how that rule applies to your particular financial situation, prepare a family budget and list all the costs of homeownership, like property taxes, insurance, maintenance, utilities, and community association fees, if applicable, as well as costs specific to your family, such as day care costs.

2. Factor in your downpayment

How much money do you have for a downpayment? The higher your downpayment, the lower your monthly payments will be. If you put down at least 20% of the home's cost, you may not have to get private mortgage insurance, which costs hundreds each month. That leaves more money for your mortgage payment.

The lower your downpayment, the higher the loan amount you'll need to qualify for and the higher your monthly mortgage payment.

3. Consider your overall debt

Lenders generally follow the 28/41 rule. Your monthly mortgage payments covering your home loan principal, interest, taxes, and insurance shouldn't total more than 28% of your gross annual income. Your overall monthly payments for your mortgage plus all your other bills, like car loans, utilities, and credit cards, shouldn't exceed 41% of your gross annual income.

Here's how that works. If your gross annual income is $100,000, multiply by 28% and then divide by 12 months to arrive at a monthly mortgage payment of $2,333 or less. Next, check the total of all your monthly bills including your potential mortgage and make sure they don't top 41%, or $3,416 in our example.

4. Use your rent as a mortgage guide

The tax benefits of homeownership generally allow you to afford a mortgage payment-including taxes and insurance-of about one-third more than your current rent payment without changing your lifestyle. So you can multiply your current rent by 1.33 to arrive at a rough estimate of a mortgage payment.

Here's an example. If you currently pay $1,500 per month in rent, you should be able to comfortably afford a $2,000 monthly mortgage payment after factoring in the tax benefits of homeownership.

However, if you're struggling to keep up with your rent, consider what amount would be comfortable and use that for the calcuation instead.

Also consider whether or not you'll itemize your deductions. If you take the standard deduction, you can't also deduct mortgage interest payments. Talking to a tax adviser, or using a tax software program to do a "what if" tax return, can help you see your tax situation more clearly.

More from HouseLogic

More on the mortgage interest deduction (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/mortgage-interest-deduction-vital-housing-market/)

More on the tax advantages of homeownership (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/tax-tips-homeowners-preparing-2009-returns/)

 Other web resources

A worksheet on home affordability (http://www.ginniemae.gov/2_prequal/intro_questions.asp?Section=YPTH)

Freddie Mac information on home affordability (http://www.freddiemac.com/corporate/buyown/english/preparing/right_for_you/afford.html)

 G.M. Filisko is an attorney and award-winning writer who's owned her own home for more than 20 years. A frequent contributor to many national publications including Bankrate.com, REALTOR® Magazine, and the American Bar Association Journal, she specializes in real estate, business, personal finance, and legal topics.

          Moving from one house to another is always a challenge, but it doesn’t have to be a nightmare.  Here are some simple tips on how to get it done with minimal stress and strain.

·        Look at all the alternatives: hiring a moving company, for example, versus renting a truck and doing it yourself.  Whichever alternative makes most sense for you, get bids from more than one vendor.

·        A few days before the moving company is scheduled to arrive or you’re supposed to pick up your rental truck, call to confirm that everything is on track to happen when it’s supposed to .

·        Prepare your change of address cards in advance and send them out as soon as it’s appropriate to do so.  The post office, utilities, companies and people you do business with, city hall, friends, relatives – all should be notified of your move.

·        Get an early start on packing by concentrating on seldom-used items first.  Each box should have its contents and the room those contents belong in written on it clearly. 

·        Take a hard look at things you seldom or never use and throw away as many of them as you can.  The more you throw away, the less you’ll have to move.  Every item you throw away is one less item to clutter up you new home.

·        Use your extra towels and linens to protect breakables.  When your supply of these things is exhausted, crumpled newspaper makes an excellent substitute.  Write “Fragile” on all appropriate boxes.

·        Put your valuables (such as jewelry) and important documents (birth certificates, car titles, etc.) aside in some safe place where they won’t be misplaced.

·        When the house is empty, go back for a thorough final inspection.  Check closets, crawl spaces, basement, attic, out-of-the-way nooks and crannies of all kinds.  Have a second person make the same inspection separately.

·        Clean your new home thoroughly before moving in.  It’s infinitely easier that way.

·        Decide in advance where you want the heavy furniture.  Changing your mind after the movers have departed is no fun – especially for your back!

·        Locate all fuses, circuit breakers, and water/gas and electrical valves.  Record the meter readings and check the smoke detectors.

·        List the phone numbers of the local